This morning we got to sleep in a little and then after breakfast one of the eco-lodge owners talked to us about how and why it started. I was surprised to learn it was already 18 years old because the entire place seemed so new and well kept. The original project involved a lot of organic agriculture, which was to be sold to the three other hotels in the area. Then, with the help of three public organization, they built four rooms to house visitors. Unfortunately, the family was not prepared; they had no electricity or telephone, and did not speak any English. With empty rooms to fill, the family furnished the place with their own furniture and added a kitchen.
After a few years the family sold the business to the current owners, who refinanced it and built it up to 20 rooms with a pool. While it has been a challenge, the family has managed to maintain the business and keep its qualification as an eco-lodge. They are not allowed to use chemicals, have to conserve the environment on their land, and need to give back to the community. Supporting local dance and recycling groups helps them to do this. The Catarata Eco-lodge also has solar panels to heat the hot water now, which has helped them to save almost $250 a year. The owner said that while they are about 56% full during the high season, they are only 27% full during the low season. She plans on using their new website and tourist agencies to help attract more customers in the future.
A wonderful trip to the Catarata waterfall was our next planned trip, but it did not go as well as I expected. Kristen and I decided to walk up the mountain which they said would be about 1.6 miles. What we did not know what how steep it would be, or that the price they told us would be wrong. So long story short, we got to the top only to find out that we had to go back down and get more money. An hour and a half after we originally started up the mountain we descended the stairs to the waterfall. It was beautiful, and the cold water felt amazing after walking in the sun for so long. I truly wish we had been able to stay longer, but it was nice while it lasted.
We ran down the mountain to a store where a lady had confirmed that we could not find any other way to the waterfall and would have to go get more money. She made us smoothies and talked to us about the stray dogs she had been saving. Each time she rescues one she has it spayed or neutered which was really good to hear since there are so many stray dogs in Costa Rica. Then we ran the rest of the way down to the Eco-lodge for lunch. We spent a little time at the pool and then showered before meeting to go visit the Maleku indigenous tribe.
It was disappointing to learn that we had gone to a village created simply to make it easier for tourists to visit. Created six years ago, this village only had about four buildings and a few people staying there at a time. They told us a little about the history of the tribe and then performed a traditional ceremony in their language. Dressed in clothes that the tribe would have worn in the past, they told us that dressed as we did now because the tree the old clothes were made from had become endangered. One exciting thing for the Maleku tribe is that a team of people sat down together to put their language on paper and make a dictionary so that it would not be forgotten in the future.
I wish it had been a better experience but it is hard to get into something like that with only a few people performing. We walked around looking at the masks and other items they had made. It is sad to think that tourism is even affecting the indigenous tribes here as they make more items to sell and adapt their lives in order to make money off of tourism. One of the Maleku people told us that they were happy tourists were coming so that we could learn about their culture and know they exist. I wonder if this was a rehearsed answer because none of them looked particularly pleased that we were there.
Finally, we drove back into La Fortuna in order to eat dinner and relax. Instead of ordering a typical Costa Rican dish, everyone there ordered a pizza, burger, or pasta. American food really hit the spot after eating so much rice and beans. I really hope the Eco-lodge can stay afloat, it is a great family business that could do really well if only people knew about it. If I ever come back to this area, I would absolutely go to the hot springs and the waterfall again. I can only hope that I will get to see the volcano again, and that it will erupt again (it hasn't in the past 6 months).
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